G956 EGM

I rebuilt the motor on my turbo about 3 years ago, piston rings, valve stem seals, big end and crank bearings, plus all the gaskets, Simon Auto had everything in stock.
I also did the timing chains & sliders etc.
Oil pump seems to be shared with the Volvo B280 so it also got a new one of those.

While the motor's out, consider swapping the 3 coolant pipes if it hasn't already been done.

[mettersl]

Hi Peter,
There are quite a few pictures of my Atmo rebuild in the projects section, its called ..."new year new car gta v6 gt".
I bought the project part way through, RATS did most of the work (for Andy, its previous owner, as well as me) and I did the detailed finishing, recommissioning and the debugging once it was working (if you call a couple of high speed trips to the South of France debugging).
I have plenty more pictures of both the work that Rats (now John Ashley) , the painter and I did. PM me and I'll send you a link, but feel free to ask about anything specific. Anything engine related will have to go somewhere else as mine was not a Turbo.
I have some GTA spares left over from my work too...there is a short list in the thread above, but there are more.
Hope it all goes well.
Lee

Engine is back

IMG_20210324_103857.jpg

So block is back, cleaned and crank polished, thankfully no grindng required..
For info mains sized at 70.062 and 70.043 and conrods at 59.982
This seems bang on info given by Simon Autos for std bearings..

Side bearing bolt hex that was corroded was removed for £31.50 so I was well happy with that..
Need to get new rings pistons, bearings and flywheel to balancers next..ex Simon probably.. Checking Meca pricing too.. Advice welcome chaps on which way to go?

Balancing is c. £350 plus vat minimum at Bassett Down Balancing, Hungerford..
Believe it will be money we'll spent speaking to some of you

Was bit shocked at corrosion in the V block.. Wish I had flushed it out and protected in 13 years it was sat in my shed.. Seems to be enough material in worse areas not to be an integrity issue. I am going to Aliminium paint block to protect it (proper heat resistant ht paint of course)

IMG_20210324_104007.jpg

On with sourcing bearings etc and have posted a shout out in parts forum in case cheaper new parts languishing in someone's garage

Looking good getting it balanced is a must clutch as well, not many people look here any more. Setting the liner height is not simple as the machineing Level from top to bottom is not that accurate you have to rotate the liner around to get the level right and then mark it.
You also need to check and clean your liners carefully for corrosion on the machined surfaces and have you had them honed or de glazed

Your spot on.. the balancers have asked for flywheel and clutch which I was surprised at..
I am just reading about home, diy ways to clean and hone liners.. but I think I'll send em to engineering co to hone.. want to make sure new rings bed in properly..
Two of the liners both at same end of block are tight so I may need to get a puller on them..is that normal?.. others fell out..!
I will defo be spending a long time on liner refitting when I rebuild.. Would you advise buying assortment of thickness of papers and how many do you normally need?.. I am assume these papers act as gasgets ie the only oil/water barrier due to fact you cant use sealant on these surfaces?.. Appreciate your replying and interest

That’s normal the back liners get all the crap around them, get a rubber hammer and tap them and they will come out, this is where the liner surface on the block corrode.
Personally if all your liners have perfect seating surfaces well as the block I think John at JL Enginenering has got plastic rings.
For me if you have any pitting on any suffice no matter how small I would use paper as it can take out any imperfections, just personal preference, the paper ones come with the gasket set.

OK removed the stuck liners (as custard suggested) with rubber mallet.. Worked a treat..

Now I have a big problem.. the liner seat on 3 and 6 have corroded. I suspect I am going to have these machined and have additional seals, plastic or paper to take up the gap?.. The existing seals appear to be steel, these two mentioned have also corroded the seal right through..
Why are steel seals used on initial build and on rework we use paper or plastic?..I presume to last longer than originals?

Thanks for your help
Peter

It’s quite common as this is where all the crap collect’s it depends on how bad the pitting or corrosion is.
There are 2 ways out of this problem that you can do, I will do a post on liners which might help and what to look out for, this will be what I have come across other people might have other ideas.